I had so much fun creating these images in the spectacular temples of Old Bagan in Myanmar.
That exhilaration you experience when shooting something special whether it be an exotic destination, amazing people or the sheer spectacular natural beauty of our world is what drives me to keep on picking up the camera.
The architecture is incredible and in photographic terms it delivers on so many levels, despite it being a major tourist draw-card as a World Heritage Site.
My sole regret was being there a week too early to take a balloon ride in the early morning. Something that will absolutely be on the list of things to do on my next trip to the region.
Located 30-40 mins from Fairbanks the lodge has sweeping views over the surrounding valleys from its hillside perch. A location that is perfect for aurora watching.
Housed in a converted gold miners dormitory the rustic, warm lodge has an open plan lounge/sitting/dining area that is just perfect for lounging around and gazing out at the incredible views.
Dinner was a fabulous surprise of a fresh leafy salad, some succulent
scallops and delicious Alaskan King Crab legs with a side of asparagus and
baked jacket potato. All washed down
with a couple of glasses of Pinot Grigio.
Although there is always some doubt as to whether you’ll see anything at all on any given night it is a total luxury to be able to head off to bed with the knowledge that there’s a staff member on overnight aurora watch who’ll come and wake you up whenever there’s action. To be honest I was absolutely exhausted and was pretty excited at the thought of a good night sleep. However, just as i was drifting off came the hurried knock on the door – it was on! There was an aurora happening! Not wanting to miss a minute, I don’t think I’ve ever gotten dressed so quickly in my life.
I raced out to the front of the lodge and there it was streaming across the sky! Standing there totally gobsmacked, I didn’t quite know where to look or to point my camera – it was everywhere.
The movement across the sky is graceful and slow, at times so much so, you don’t even notice. What you do see is that every minute the view changes – so majestic and just simply beautiful!
Such an incredible experience. My only regret was that I didn’t have a bottle of champagne to celebrate, toast and enjoy what would probably be one of the most amazing experiences I’ve had in my life.
Capturing these penguins porpoising in Antarctica as they rocket out of the water at speeds of up to 36 kmh (22 mph) was definitely a challenge. There were many, many frames where I had nothing but water in the shot.
What you don’t see from this shot is that only a few minutes before there were a group of 30 or so Gentoo Penguins porpoising towards us. The number had petered out a bit by the time they got to us, but it was still another incredible Antarctic moment!
We’d spent the morning cruising around the bay in zodiacs exploring some of the incredible icebergs. The water was glass-like shimmering just as silk does and reflecting ice all around. It was a world of white punctuated with glistening blue icebergs.
Not long after getting back on the boat there was the call-out to say that whales had been spotted. I grabbed my camera and took off for the deck. Minutes later whales were being spotted in every direction, our expedition leader had made the call to delay our departure and get all the zodiacs back in the water – we were heading back out to explore!
The next hour or so was just magic. The setting was already picture perfect so to add a bunch of whales feeding in the krill-rich waters of Wilhelmina Bay, you end up with a totally amazing experience.
Hiking in the Annapurna Dhaulagiri region of Nepal is truly spectacular!
This image was taken up on Khopra Ridge where there’s a simple lodge sitting on a finger of land surrounded by a deep gorge. Ahead is the magnificent Dhaulagiri range, while to the right is the stunning Annapurna South (just out of the picture).
Had an awesome 10 days hiking in the area, with lots of scrambling and shuffling along what felt like goat tracks on the sides of mountains. There was also a few hairy moments when we were charged by yaks.
Walking through Bardiya National Park in the early morning, on my second day of seeking out a tiger, I had a moment! The result of that moment is the above shot! It was totally fleeting where all I managed was a single frame. The deer had walked out of the dense forest and stopped on the path ahead it turned to look at us; then it was gone.
Unfortunately I didn’t get to see a tiger that day – however my camera did – I have a shot where there’s an orange blob way off in the distance. We came close a second time, however a loudmouthed guide and his clients managed to be raucous enough on sighting the elusive creature to scare it back into the bush.
The Great Barrier Reef off the Queensland coast in Australia is an absolute must visit.
The best way to get in touch with this simply magnificent piece of nature is probably diving, but snorkeling certainly comes a very close second (IMHO).
Once you’ve experienced its beauty from below the water then take the opportunity for a helicopter joy flight for a truly spectacular view. It’s perhaps a little expensive but well worth it, and definitely a once in a lifetime experience. There will be options of how long etc and if you are visiting the reef off Airlie Beach you may be given the option of flying either out to, or back from, the reef. Personally, I’d prefer to spend 10 minutes flying across the main highlights rather than 40 minutes in transit maybe seeing beautiful aerial views but only getting a minute or two of reef.
The boat trip to and from the reef generally takes a couple hours each way, so it is a full day. All in all though, it is a fantastic day out but your time on the reef pontoon is limited to maybe 3 – 4 hours max, so this means it’s busy, busy, busy. Getting into the viewing sub to take a look around, snorkeling as much of the available area as possible, filling up on the buffet lunch then teeing up time for the chopper flight makes things hectic. Certainly don’t go expecting a luxurious day with the reef to yourself, I think you’d need to take up the option of the overnight stay on the pontoon for a much more exclusive experience.
Hailing from Southern Vietnam the Cai Dai religion is a feast of colourful kitsch. Its saints include Sun Yat-sen, Victor Hugo and Vietnamese Poet, Nguyen Binh Khiem, while its beliefs and teachings seem to be a bit of a mish-mash of Buddhism, Catholicism and Taoism. The vibrant robes of red, yellow and blue are said to represent, and in a way pay homage to each.
These images were taken at the church’s principal location, the Holy See in Tay Ninh just a couple of hours from Saigon. Unfortunately, we had pretty average weather with a bit of rain before dawn and overcast skies for the early morning service, however the people were incredibly welcoming and the church filled with intriguing detail.
Cuba is the home of the Mojito and what better place to indulge in a couple of these refreshing, minty treats than a visit to what is reckoned to be their birthplace – La Bodeguita del Medio.
Said to have also been one of Hemingway’s favourite bars back in the day, this atmospheric haunt makes an excellent stopping off place in Old Havana.
It is a spot that is touted by many to be very touristy, and really does get very crowded but I would suggest not letting this put you off as the place simply oozes history and is somewhere I really enjoyed.
The band playing was awesome; the Mojito excellent, with a very generous free pour of rum; and I just couldn’t resist making my own mark on the walls as so many have done before me!
Lao food has an incredibly fresh taste largely influenced by the wonderful use of herbs that transform simple ingredients into delicious meals.
The beef Laap dish served in most restaurants these days is made a little more palatable for westerners with the meat now being cooked rather than its traditional raw version. Herbs gave the dish great flavour, while the crunch of bean sprouts made for added texture.
A traditional clear soup of meat, herbs and vegetables, Orlam makes for a nice light meal, giving you the impression that eating it really is good for you.
To broaden your food experience beyond local Luang Prabang fare head for Le Patio Cafe at the Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre, which serves a range of minority dishes from various nearby provinces. The food is very good, with the menu offering the ability to taste a nice mix rather than being stuck with just one dish. Set in a lovely old building, insight is also given into the people and culture where the dish hails from. Oh and if that’s not enough, there’s also a delicious selection of French pastries to finish with.
Tamarind restaurant has a great reputation for its food, and based on my experience it’s very well deserved. Using ultra fresh ingredients it serves up a fusion of traditional local dishes with a few modern touches.
The Mok Pa (steamed fish with herbs) was simply divine – tender, fleshy fillet of fish with dill and basil, wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed to perfection. The melt in your mouth fish morsels were accompanied by plump, glossy grains of sticky rice, which also proved excellent for soaking up the juice.
So cool and refreshing in the blistering heat, the watermelon and chilli granita was a tantalising icy mix of sweet and spice – a drink I swore I’d be looking to replicate at home.
Meals were definitely a highlight for me in Luang Prabang, with the taste and style both in complete harmony with the heat and humidity of the environment.
A damp coolness lingers in the air as a sea of vibrant saffron seemingly floats along a deserted narrow road in the faint early morning light. Framed by lush greenery and traditional wooden architecture a smattering of locals patiently sit with their bamboo baskets filled with sticky rice as they wait to give alms. Witnessing this serene, special event also referred to as Tak-Bat was a highlight of my stay, however not every scene plays out with such reverence.
I couldn’t even bring myself to raise my camera at the alms giving that took place just outside my hotel in Luang Prabang. There were no other onlookers; I imagine this same event would have been repeated thousands of times in exactly the same manner.
Unfortunately, this was not the case in the centre of the Luang Prabang. Where I can only describe the Tak-Bat here as a circus which features these ridiculous camera-toting tourists jumping in, out and around the monks who were silently attempting to carry out this Buddhist tradition. Despite the rules of conduct being well publicised around town, the behaviour of many left me incredibly conflicted about taking my own photos and the impact of tourism on this age-old ritual.
I was a little horrified to find it has almost become a “tourism experience” with visitors being given the opportunity to take part in the tradition and give alms. The desire to give can only be commended but I question taking part in sacred religious rituals where there is no real association. In some ways I think it makes a mockery of the situation.
Poor quality food is a further complication where some monks have become sick from rice given by some unsuspecting tourists, as this is purely a money making opportunity for some.
I moved away from the main street and to my relief I found a much quieter place where I could sit at a distance and take photos. I am very thankful for my zoom lens!
So frequently it happens that visiting a place which you had enjoyed many years before, you are disappointed when returning to find the masses have discovered your once much less trodden haven, sapping its former wonderful atmosphere and cultural authenticity.
Before returning to Luang Prabang recently I feared the worst after having read many comments online about how much things have changed. It’s about 10 years or so since my last visit, and I must say, that sure things are different but on the whole I still had an amazing time. The old part of town remains a sleepy slice of cultural heritage with pretty monasteries sprinkled amongst a fabulous mix of restored French colonial and traditional Lao architecture.
One of the most profound visible differences I found were the growing number of upscale boutique resorts occupying beautifully renovated old buildings, with classic luxury vehicles standing ready to ferry around well-heeled guests.
I’ve never been one to visit every tourist attraction out there, preferring to sit and enjoy some local food whilst soaking up the ambiance of a place – Luang Prabang is simply perfect for this. I wandered aimlessly through the temples just enjoying their spectacular beauty enveloped by the light scent of lingering frangipani.
Kids hunt for the healthiest of snacks in the quiet streets by using large bamboo poles to jab away at fruit hanging high in the treetops as monks drift by, their dazzling saffron robes adding vibrancy to the lush green surrounds. Of course, these days there are many new activities for visitors to get involved in, but the majority of these seem to be quite culturally complimentary with a definite ecological slant – the cooking school and weaving centre are two that immediately spring to mind.
While relaxing with a cool drink on the banks of the mighty Mekong or Nam Khan river, as the sun dips lazily towards the horizon, is the perfect way to end the day.
Possibly one of the most influential factors on how much you enjoy your stay is your choice of accommodation – I enjoyed being in a more local part of town, which was still just a short bike ride from all the action. Although Luang Prabang has definitely grown, and is a little more polished than it was 10 years ago, it remains one of the most charming outposts in Asia.
Being located out in the Taklamakan Desert below sea level it is hard to imagine anything growing in the barren, rocky landscape however Turfan is known for its grapes, melons and the nearby flaming mountains, as well as having the notoriety of being the hottest place in China.
Built some 2,000 years ago the ancient Karez irrigation system not only brings miraculous life to the dusty plains making Turfan a productive fertile pocket of land but it also cemented the town as a key stopping point on the Silk Road for caravans and traders in years gone by.
The totally awesome ruins of Jiaohe are a fantastic place to wander and conjure up visions of what times past might have been like in its heyday.
Home to the stunning Emin Minaret, a building that well and truly caught my eye for its simple yet intricate beauty, this is one of the first stops when travelling west that you will really get a taste of Uyghur culture.
But the morning I spent exploring the local animal market was an unexpected highlight of my time in this desert oasis. Wandering among the action was a great introduction to local life and about as far away from the tourist trail as you get.
We did get lots of enquiring looks of bewilderment, with many not quite actually able to work out what could possibly be interesting about watching herders and towns-people buying and selling sheep, goats and cows.
Everyone was incredibly friendly and curious, though a little camera shy at the beginning. The Uygur food is absolutely delicious, particularly if you are a meat lover and the atmosphere in the old parts of town is magic as donkeys “clip clop” their way along the streets.
Turfan has lots to offer and is an excellent place to spend a few days getting caught up in the fabulous legends of the Silk Road.
Jiuzhaigou is spectacular Chinese alpine scenery, a world heritage site and world biosphere protected area in mountainous northern Sichuan province, China. The picturesque mountainous landscape is peppered with brilliantly coloured lakes and waterfallls ensconced among dense, verdant forests.
I was totally blown away by this place when I first visited in 1997. It was early October and the magnificence of fall was in full swing. The trees were all shades of crimson, orange and yellow contrasting beautifully against the jewel coloured lakes.
The images you see here were taken when I returned at the end of May 2002 and were shot using the gorgeous Fuji Velvia slide film. The impossibly green forests and brilliantly coloured, sparkling water that you see in the images is in my mind exactly how it looked – simply stunning!!!
Straddling the Sichuan / Gansu border is the simply wonderful little village of Langmusi.
The first time I visited this remote outpost was back in 1997. The location is simply stunning, located up on the sweeping grasslands of the Tibetan plateau.
There have been big changes since I first visited, apparently the roads in town have now been sealed – so no more of the muddy atmospheric images that feature here in this gallery. There are more hotels available with hot water on demand and a selection of restaurants/cafes. Back in 1997 there were no streetlights at night and just one small place to eat which by the way served the most amazing apple pies. The yak burgers were pretty good too!
Altogether a totally wonderful find on a journey which was definitely a highlight for me way back then – tourism barely even raised a glint in the eye, however our presence certainly inspired more than the occasional glance. As I recall sitting with a cup of “babao” or eight treasure tea by the fire in a restaurant in Xiahe, which used to be a full day’s journey along bumpy dirt roads, having a nomad woman examining very closely. Actually, when I say ‘very closely’, it probably doesn’t give you the full picture – her face just a couple of inches from mine as she gave me a good inspection.
Langmusi has a fantastic monastery and was one of the few mainstream places where they still practiced the traditional Tibetan sky burial.
Thought I’d delve into my massive collection of film archives to find a few images of a festival in Langmusi, which is a small town out on the Tibetan Plateau in China’s far west. Taken on the 1st June 2002 (International Children’s Day), this festival attracted nomads from all over the grasslands for a day of singing, dancing, horse racing and yak riding.
I was so incredibly fortunate to experience this event with one of my groups (I was a tour leader at the time) and it was definitely worth arriving after 2am in the morning for. We’d broken down on the grasslands in the middle of Sichuan province the previous day. The 8 hour or so wait out in the middle of nowhere while the parts for the mini-vans were driven in was an interesting experience which everyone handled fantastically. The journey was a long, slow one on a terrible road, but without a doubt totally worth it in the end!
The festival was a full day of events. First, we rushed off out into the grassland to see the horse races. I must say I was a little in awe of the youngster who won. Of course, they were riding bareback and most of the riders were under 10 years of age – absolutely put my horse riding skills to shame. Then the crowd jumped into the backs of a couple of big blue trucks and onto horses or motorbikes and took off to the next venue.
Sitting up by the road was a great perch to watch the yak-riding race taking place 50 metres or so down in the valley. It also seemed like a safe distance as I thought that yaks were fairly skittish and strange animals, so to see them being ridden along the grassland was going to be interesting. Once the riders were on board, the small crowd around the animals quickly scattered as they exploded off in all directions. They really are skittish and difficult to control, and were pretty much running all over the place while throwing their riders off. Eventually one guy got a bit of a straight run happening in the right direction and crossed the finish line.
After lunch, down by the stream the rock throwing, singing and dancing was happening, where different groups were almost having a dance off! So much colour and enjoyment both from the performers and the crowd, it truly was an amazing experience.
This was the first time the festival had been held and I actually could not tell you if it has been held since then – in all a very random event that I had heard about through a contact, and even then it was always a maybe. For me this is what made it so special!
The vibrant colours in these images are due purely to the beautiful Fuji Velvia slide film I was using in those days and gee, it really did produce amazing images.